How is the hairspring made

- Oct 18, 2017-

Hairspring is a strategic movement part, and even in Switzerland, there are few companies that can produce gossamer because it is a complex, labor-intensive, mysterious process. Few manufacturers will open the door to show how they work.


Although the diameter of only 1 cm, but it is the heart of the movement of the movement of the watch. Industry consensus, Christian Huygens in 1675 invented the first with a balance wheel (Balance Wheel) and gossamer movement. Since then, the successor Xiao Cao Cao with the watch speed mechanism changes are very small. Escapement to promote the balance wheel, on the contrary, by the balance wheel constraints. Balance wheel vibration adjustment time flow: the balance wheel every swing once, the gear forward a certain distance. Its role, similar to the role of clock pendulum. Slim coiled hairspring, to ensure that the balance wheel to a constant frequency of swing back and forth.


The traditional gossamer is made of iron-nickel alloy, such as Nivarox, whose elasticity is hardly affected by temperature. Nivarox is an abbreviation for Nicht Variabel Oxydfest, which is similar to the Invar alloy (FeNi36%) invented by the Swedish Nobel laureate Charles Eduude Guillaume.


If you want to manufacture gossamer, first of all with high-tech industrial precision and manual operations, with ultra-precision metal lamination technology to produce forging of metal. It takes several days to turn the wire into fine thread by continuous steps. Tolerances are usually less than 0.1 micron (100 nanometers), because subtle changes in hairline profile will have an impact on watch performance. This technique is well known that the difference lies in the trade secrets that satisfy the necessary precision.

The manufacturing process of gossamer involves multiple quality procedures, quality control, cleaning and heat treatment, and so on. The following lists only the major production steps:



>Used to gradually reduce the diameter of the alloy wire diamond mold.


>Roll flattened.




>Winding / heat treatment



>Classification / pairing


>Shape the end curve